(Please note, this post was written prior to the devastation of Hurricane Helene and we have not been in Western North Carolina following the storm.)

Simply put, I love Asheville. It is perhaps one of my favorite places… right up there with Healdsburg in Sonoma and Fernandina Beach in Florida. I have an enduring affection for small-ish, eclectic cities with a quirky vibe and foodie flair. 

Asheville is the best of many worlds: it’s southern enough to be hospitable, but edgy enough to be intriguing, and sophisticated – yet not uppity. All at once, outdoorsy and artsy and foodie and brew-y. And of course, VIEW-y. My first draw to western North Carolina was the mountains and those famous layered blue views. My hook, line and sinker for Asheville was the rest of it that rounds out the plate. 

I’ve seen Asheville from a couple of different perspectives – most recently as a destination for a girls’ weekend, and a family vacation over spring break. I wish I had a favorite version to focus on, but truly, each visit had its own merit. I’ll cover the highlights of both here and you can decide for yourself. Or, like me, do both! 

Paddle the French Broad River 

Paddle is an exaggerated reference… more like, float… while on a paddle board. But perfect for a late afternoon, pre-happy hour adventure for my sister and me. Our tour operator from Wai Mauna Asheville met us at the finish point where we left our car, and he drove us and the paddleboards up the river a few miles. (Bonus: he offered a local’s opinion on nearly everything we passed!) He helped us launch and we were on our way. When we booked, we were uncertain about guiding ourselves, but he assured us “just follow the current”, and he was absolutely right – no guide necessary. We enjoyed nearly two hours on the water, floating past the Biltmore, hillside residences, and the New Belguim brewery. We virtually had the river to ourselves (it was late August and a quiet time of year.) A somewhat active, scenic way to see parts of Asheville from a different perspective. 

The River Arts District 

Perfect for browsing all day long. Galleries of all types – textiles, paint, photography, glass, jewelry, and more. Working artists in studios, happy to share their process with you. And something for every budget. The oversize oil paintings weren’t in my budget or my decorating plan, but wandering those galleries felt like being in a museum – minus the stiff atmosphere. The River Arts District is gritty and boisterous in a comfortable way. You can meander in and out of multiple galleries and come out on the other side the street, a little turned around from where you started. Not lost, just wandering. Wander some more and you’ll find your way back. My absolute favorite: the North Carolina Glass Center. Beautiful work on display and for sale, and usually an artist blowing glass or hosting a workshop. Fascinating to watch – and yes, I took my kids back here and aside from the stress of all things breakable, they were captivated. So much so, that we signed them up for a glass-blowing workshop. It was a hands-on experience with a glass artist who taught them a variety of techniques so they each could create one piece to bring home. Well worth the fee and a nice way to support working artists in the city. 

The Biltmore 

Oh, the Biltmore! Plan on nearly a full day to explore the grounds and the house. You can hike or peddle through the estate, but we opted for a guided horseback trail ride and I have decided THIS IS THE BEST! You traverse pastures and grasp views that are not accessible in any other way, and you embrace the quiet that is literally off the beaten path. Our horses were perfectly well-behaved and the trail ride was the best way to balance the crowds elsewhere. The first time I toured the house, we simply followed the signs from room to room, absorbing both the history and the extravagance of the furniture, art and décor. The next visit, my family and I rented the self-guided tour headsets. Don’t skip this… the small additional fee ($12) was entirely worth it to learn the significance of the spaces and the pieces that fill them. (Did you know the National Gallery of Art hid master works in the music room at the Biltmore during World War II?! Me neither – but I learned it on the audio tour!) And finally, the winery and its tastings were a delightful way to cap off a bustling day. The hosts are both welcoming and knowledgeable and happy to pour you a taste of anything. We lucked out and got a spot at a bar right away; prepare to wait for an opening on most days though.  

Catawba Falls 

There are countless places to hike around Western North Carolina. It’s a struggle to pick any single one. When I’m exploring a new area, I always reference my All Trails app. (If you like to explore with hikes, especially when you travel, download this before your next trip – an excellent, easy reference for trails based on location, distance and difficulty.) All Trails helped us find Catawba Falls and we’re so glad we did! The hike was very easy both to navigate (clearly marked) and traverse (very slight incline). Great for families, dogs on leashes, and quality time. Don’t be afraid to veer slightly off trail on your left – you’ll be rewarded with a few smaller falls all to yourself. It’s a bit crowded at the top, but view is entirely worth waiting your turn to climb up. Pack refreshments so you have an excuse to linger near the base of the falls before hiking back to your car. 

Mast General Store 

I’m inclined to believe no visit to Western North Carolina is complete without a stop at a Mast General Store. I’m partial to the original location in Banner Elk, but their storefront in downtown Asheville is an easy place to pop in before or after a meal. Mast General Store gives the impression that it’s a souvenir shop – and there’s plenty of shirts, hats and tokens to be had. But if you scratch the surface, it’s also part apothecary, farmer’s market, artisan gallery, candy store and outdoor outfitter. I bought my first Lodge cast iron skillet at a Mast General Store and it was a steal. We have hand-made coffee mugs we bought years ago from Mast General Store. And their dilly beans and raspberry jalapeno jam are some of my most favorite foods. Give yourself plenty of time to really see Mast General Store for all its bits and pieces. 

Where We Stayed 

During my girls’ weekend, we stayed at the AC Hotel by Marriott and it was the perfect location. Walkable to so much of the best dining and retail in Asheville, the downtown location can’t be beat. The roof top bar overlooks the city lights with mountains in the distance… a perfect place for happy hour or late-night cocktail. 

As a family, we opted for a cabin about 20 minutes outside of Asheville in Swannanoa. VRBO is a go-to for me and I’ve had luck every time. This trip was no different – our cabin was near the top of a peak, yet the drive up wasn’t intimidating and the views looking back into the city and the Blue Ridge Mountains beyond were the stuff of dreams. I may or may not have asked to move in permanently.  

What’s Next?  

Next time I go, I’ll book a walking foodie tour and plan a day’s itinerary full of local wineries.